K-K-K-KONI Adjustment-t-t H-H-H-elp
01-20-2007, 07:03 PM
#16
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That nut is threaded on to the shock rod that comes all the way from the shock, through the spring and upper collar. My OEM and Bilsteins have this set up and are non-adjustable.
01-20-2007, 07:08 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
That nut is threaded on to the shock rod that comes all the way from the shock, through the spring and upper collar. My OEM and Bilsteins have this set up and are non-adjustable.
01-20-2007, 07:23 PM
#19
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Mark:
You appear to have EXTERNALLY adjustable Konis, which use a plastic **** fit over the end of the shaft. No need to compress the shaft. Just loosen the nut and turn the rod with a wrench if you don't have the **** - the rod should have flats for a wrench.
The INTERNALLY adjustable Konis have a socket head end on the rod as shown here. You have the much more expensive converted Konis.
You appear to have EXTERNALLY adjustable Konis, which use a plastic **** fit over the end of the shaft. No need to compress the shaft. Just loosen the nut and turn the rod with a wrench if you don't have the **** - the rod should have flats for a wrench.
The INTERNALLY adjustable Konis have a socket head end on the rod as shown here. You have the much more expensive converted Konis.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 01-20-2007 at 07:40 PM.
01-20-2007, 07:31 PM
#20
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Mark,
DO NOT lift/unload the car once the top strut nut is off !!!!
With the suspension loaded, the shock piston rod must be pushed all the way to the bottom ( all the way!
) ... and turned slightly counterclockwise until you feel the rod engage the slot in the foot valve: the rod must be kept in this position until the zero point - and desired adjustment are established [ see my earlier post].
Cheers
DO NOT lift/unload the car once the top strut nut is off !!!!
With the suspension loaded, the shock piston rod must be pushed all the way to the bottom ( all the way!
) ... and turned slightly counterclockwise until you feel the rod engage the slot in the foot valve: the rod must be kept in this position until the zero point - and desired adjustment are established [ see my earlier post]. Cheers
01-20-2007, 07:52 PM
#22
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My 951 has the externally adjustables (the Koni "yellow's"...they have a dust cap with a thin top to the rod.)
The 928's are RED. I found this in the KONI site....I am SOOOOO praying I don't have to remove them to adjust them!!!
1. Fully compress the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (anti-clockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjusting nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly (fig. 1).
NOTE: Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and this must be removed prior to adjusting. Don’t forget to re-install.
2. Keeping the shock absorber compressed make 1 full turn (360°) to the right (clockwise). The total range is about 5 half turns (fig. 2).
3. Extend the shock absorber vertically for at least 1 cm without turning in order to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.
The 928's are RED. I found this in the KONI site....I am SOOOOO praying I don't have to remove them to adjust them!!!
1. Fully compress the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (anti-clockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjusting nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly (fig. 1).
NOTE: Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and this must be removed prior to adjusting. Don’t forget to re-install.
2. Keeping the shock absorber compressed make 1 full turn (360°) to the right (clockwise). The total range is about 5 half turns (fig. 2).
3. Extend the shock absorber vertically for at least 1 cm without turning in order to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.
01-20-2007, 07:59 PM
#24
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You have internally adjustable red Konis that were CONVERTED to externally adjustable. This is an post-manufacturing procedure that costs about $200 per shock.
01-20-2007, 08:02 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
You have internally adjustable red Konis that were CONVERTED to externally adjustable. This is an aftermarket procedure that costs about $200 per shock.
OK...so - when I turn the 'squarish' top of the rod...it just turns....no clicks...no force needed...
01-20-2007, 08:05 PM
#26
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I don't know if they click, but loosen the nut and try turning the rod. BTW - the adjustment direction is the REVERSE of the internals.
01-20-2007, 09:00 PM
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If these are not externally adjustable, then they must be very old internals that do not have the socket headed shaft that accepts an Allen wrench. I've not seen any before. If they need to be compressed, then you will need to adapt the tool to fit the shaft end. I hope they are externally adjustable - that's what they look like.
01-20-2007, 09:42 PM
#29
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They are early internally adjustable Konis! 
... the wrench flats on the top of the piston rod were later changed to an internal Allan key hex: I have the early type on my '80, and installed the later type on the '88 - they are absolutely identical, save for the difference in how the piston rod is counterheld when the nut is torqued.
IMPORTANT point #2 ( you read #1 in NOT lifting the car when the nut is removed) - there are two flavours of early Konis , with the wrench flats on the rod, for 928s. The very early ones were pure hydraulic ...NO GAS: if the piston rod on these is compressed, it will not return by itself.
To adjust the 'wrench flat' type, a special tool must be made with a slot that fits over the wrench flats - not a big deal. Otherwise, the adjustment is as I've described. If such a tool was cross pinned to the shock rod, it would also work with the earliest hydraulic units.
Push the piston rod down a bit - if it slowly returns, they are Koni Gas units ....
... the wrench flats on the top of the piston rod were later changed to an internal Allan key hex: I have the early type on my '80, and installed the later type on the '88 - they are absolutely identical, save for the difference in how the piston rod is counterheld when the nut is torqued.IMPORTANT point #2 ( you read #1 in NOT lifting the car when the nut is removed) - there are two flavours of early Konis , with the wrench flats on the rod, for 928s. The very early ones were pure hydraulic ...NO GAS: if the piston rod on these is compressed, it will not return by itself.
To adjust the 'wrench flat' type, a special tool must be made with a slot that fits over the wrench flats - not a big deal. Otherwise, the adjustment is as I've described. If such a tool was cross pinned to the shock rod, it would also work with the earliest hydraulic units.
Push the piston rod down a bit - if it slowly returns, they are Koni Gas units ....