If ever there was a town that bewitched us with its magical charm, Killarney would be it. After days of traveling to other spots in Ireland, including the big city, the craggy monastery, and the gigantic Cliffs of Moher, this was the place where all of the Irish experience came together for us.
Killarney is a popular spot with tourists (really, is there anywhere in Ireland that isn’t?). It is the starting point for the famous Ring of Kerry – which, not to spoil it, but we skipped that and opted for something else, but we’ll share that in an upcoming post.Â
Killarney is a town inside a national park. It is quaint yet modern, with a lot of hustle despite acres of unblemished, protected land around it. We met Irish families who happily settled in Killarney while we also joined the throngs of tourists looking for pubs. It was truly delightful.
Killarney National Park itself is a gem and there are good reasons it pulls in over a million tourists and 400 million euros in travel trade each year. McGillycuddy’s mountain peaks slowly lift out of the earth while lakes pop up randomly below. There are fields where bright flowers sway.
This park, the first national park of Ireland, is 10,000 hectares or over 24,000 acres. In addition to being protected by the country of Ireland, UNESCO has designated the park a Biosphere Reserve. (We are realizing more and more how much we love UNESCO sites.) While primarily about the ecosystems and the flora, there are herds of deer throughout, including the only remaining herd of red deer left on mainland Ireland.Â
We ended up staying in an AirBnB in Killarney for a few nights, and not only was the opportunity to settle down for awhile lovely, we also were so glad we chose this particular town.
If you are considering a trip to Killarney and Killarney National Park, here’s what you need to know…
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Jaunting Cars Through Killarney National Park
Was this activity incredibly touristy? Yes. Was it worth it? Also, yes.
Jaunting cars in Killarney, basically horse-drawn carriages, have a long history and tradition. Queen Victoria rode one during her 1861 visit that “put Killarney on the map.” (source) A family-owned business for generations, jaunting cars and their horses pepper the scenery throughout Killarney. I think they are the best way to see Killarney National Park. Our experience was certainly fun and unique!
We had a large enough group that it was worth making reservations in advance. As with most of Ireland’s hot spots in the summer, there is a lot of demand. Plan in advance as much as you can.
Our driver met us at the prearranged location, and we were off! Our driver was kind, knowledgeable, and had lived in Killarney his whole life. He engaged us in funny stories, terribly cheesy jokes, and offered with vulnerability his take on what it’s like to be an Irish family living in a tourist town working in a tourist business. The takeaway was that he loved it, despite its challenges.
Our jaunt through Killarney National Park was stunning. Like most who visit, we were particularly awestruck as we crested a hill and saw ourselves looking out onto a lake smattered with blotches of Crayola bright sun-yellow flowers fanning out deferentially before the iconic Ross Castle perched on the shore. Hill peaks disappeared into a moisture-hazed sky and it felt as though all of Ireland was right here, in front of us. All of its history, its present, and its future were on display.
There are other ways to explore Killarney National Park, of course. As avid hikers, I felt somewhat guilty that we weren’t using our own feet to explore. But the ability to cover so much area, to see so much with an experienced guide was much appreciated.
- For more on jaunting cars in Killarney and related tours, visit killarneyjauntingcars.com.
- For more on the Killarney National Park, visit www.nationalparks.ie/killarney.
Explore the Gardens at Killarney House
The Killarney House and its accompanying gardens are part of the national park but are smack in the middle of downtown Killarney. Huge golden gates announce its presence and behind them lay gorgeous gardens and a recently renovated “house.” Killarney House and Gardens have an interesting history worth looking up. This website in particular is very fun to read simply due to the colorful and splendid commentary, such as:
“Killarney House has a long and complicated history. The original ‘Killarney House’ was home to the Earls of Kenmare and was built in the early 18th century. Known locally as ‘The Mansion’ – (how imaginative…), this sprawling structure was considered one of the finest mansions in Ireland at the time.”
As with so many old homes a fire destroyed the original building, the Kenmares rebuilt, an investor took over, and eventually, an Irish American developer bought everything. The investor and his wife lived in the home until 1998, even though they had gifted it back to Ireland. When owner Mary McShain died, the Irish state was able to fully take command. In 2016 they did extensive renovations to the home, and that is what we see today.
This made for a lovely picnic lunch for us on a storybook summer day. Packing sandwiches and chips, we lounged in the sun while the kids played tag around the flowers. Inside the house, we enjoyed the fascinating exhibits in homage to the park.Â
- For more details on the Killarney House and grounds, visit killarneyguide.ie/killarney-house.
- For more on the Killarney National Park, visit www.nationalparks.ie/killarney.
Visit Muckross House
While Muckross House is technically part of Killarney National Park as well, this place has its own presence. It is imposing, demanding, and ostentatious. It is also worth a visit.
(Note that there are jaunting car tours that will take visitors around Muckross House and its grounds if you elect to do that.)
Muckross House is the reason Killarney National Park exists and was the reason this very first national park in Ireland was created.Â
Henry Arthur Herbert, a Member of Parliament and Chief Secretary for Ireland, built the house (using his wife’s large dowry) in 1843. The Herberts owned the land for generations, but this house was the crown jewel, finished by a famous Irish architect (William Burn) right before the great famine. It was built with 65 rooms and, according to the books, the Herbert family was doing okay until they dumped heaps of money into the mansion to prepare for that famous Queen Victoria visit mentioned above.
In 1899, a Guinness bought it to rent out as a hunting lodge (can you IMAGINE?!). Then in 1911, a wealthy American (again – the Americans) bought it to give to his daughter as a wedding gift.
Tragically, his daughter died of pneumonia in 1929. A few years later, in 1932, the family gave the house to the Irish government in her honor. Thus, Killarney National Park was established.
Touring the inside of the house is a must. It is a self-guided tour and the house has many antiques and pieces original to the early 1900s to lust over (well, unless you are a 13-year-old boy in which case, apparently, it is all rather boring, as my son informed me).
The gardens are also spectacular. Muckross House is positioned on one of the famous Killarney lakes and the exquisite gardens have been a source of pride for generations.
When you come to Muckross House, make plans to stay awhile. In addition to touring the inside and meandering through the gardens, you’ll want to see the traditional farm, get soft-serve ice cream from the cafe, and browse in the craft shop.
- For more on Muckross House, including hours and tickets, visit www.muckross-house.ie.
- For more on the Killarney National Park, visit www.nationalparks.ie/killarney.
Listen to Live Music
I could write articles about what is “authentic Irish music” and how tourists have unrealistic, antiquated expectations regarding this. In America, we romanticize this, hoping for fiddles, tin flutes, and limerick-like verses to sing along to. And while that is still part of what is played in pubs (and folks really do sing along), they also really like “Country Roads” and “Rocky Top.” Like all humans, the musicians and their audiences are diverse and enjoy heaps of tunes. Head out to the pubs to hear music in Killarney with an open heart and an open ear and enjoy the wild musical journey that unfolds.
Explore the Town (Shop, Visit the Churches)
Since Killarney is a hive of life for people who make it home, just enjoying the town is great fun.
As with most of Europe, there are lots of old churches. (As I have said before, if you go to Europe and don’t go inside an old church, did you even really go to Europe?). St. Mary’s Cathedral is the iconic spire on the horizon. We popped in for a quick look but they were preparing for a wedding. There are also many other churches throughout town, though, worth the attention.
Also pursuant to the normal life that happens outside the international visitors sauntering along, Killarney is a great town to shop in. There are the standard traps that cater to tourists with overpriced goods, but you can also meander and find the gems where local shop owners have been selling homemade goods for generations. Killarney is where we found our wool sweaters. I don’t bring back much from trips besides photos, but I wanted an Irish wool sweater fiercely. I am happy to say it has kept me very cozy this past winter.
Sample Whiskey
We’ve already talked about true whiskey tasting back in Dublin, heading straight to the source. But walking the main streets of Killarney, dipping into pubs, and talking to the bartenders, is probably the best way to truly experience the Irish whiskey culture.
We went both upscale and more “down home” with our parents’ night out. We started at the gorgeous Brownes Bar in the Great Southern (a luxury hotel). This was posh and felt like a treat for our night out without kids. But then we strolled down main street and found pubs that were loud and exciting, where the bartenders served us up their recommended drink (always whiskey).
It’s one of my fundamental values to be honest with you, friends. (As you may have noticed from this post.) So believe me when I say we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Killarney. If you get a chance, make this happen for you and your family – ride in a jaunting car, buy your wool sweaters, and enjoy this perfectly Irish town.