It's the kind of visual that wouldn't be out of place in a fairy tale — hundreds of brightly coloured hot air balloons collectively taking flight over the otherworldly landscapes of Cappadocia, Turkey, as the sun slowly emerges above the horizon. And while it has taken millions of years and a rather complex geologic process (think: volcanic eruptions, layers of ash, basalt and erosion) for these landscapes to take shape, most tourists never slow down long enough to look beyond the obvious, hightailing it out of Cappadocia soon after scrambling out of the woven wicker basket of a balloon — much to their detriment. Sure, a day or two will allow you to cross a balloon ride off your bucket list (provided the weather conditions are in your favour), but what else is there to do? Plenty, as it turns out. Here's our guide to what to do in Cappadocia.
Wander around Avanos
First things first: Cappadocia is a historical region spanning five provinces – Aksaray, Nevşehir, Niğde, Kayseri and Kırşehir – in Central Anatolia (and not a city, as many seem to think). While most hotels are located in the tourism hub of Göreme, a town in Nevşehir, a day trip to nearby Avanos comes highly recommended. Intrinsically linked with the art of pottery, it's located on the aptly named Red River (locally known as Kizilirmak), where the deposits of red clay that lie on its banks have long been used to make pots, plates, drinking vessels and other household products — they date as far back as the Hittite period.
Today, this translates to a charming town that's easily explored on foot and home to some of the world's most renowned pottery. Few, however, realise that residing in the basement of a seemingly ordinary pottery store, Chez Galip, is a cultural attraction unlike any other: a fully fledged museum of hair. Founded by ceramic artist Galip Körükçü, practically by accident, the Hair Museum of Avanos exhibits the donated strands of an estimated five million women from around the world. In fact, they adorn every last inch of this subterranean space, ceilings included. It all started when a friend of Körükçü snipped off a lock of her own hair as a memento, just as she was leaving town back in 1979, kickstarting a strange tradition that female visitors to Chez Galip still follow. As for the museum's stance on men hoping to add to this collection? No, thank you.
Take a tour among otherwordly erosion
Taking the slow travel approach in Cappadocia allows for the opportunity to closely explore its many valleys and the countless fairy chimneys – towering, strangely shaped rock formations – that landed Göreme and its surroundings on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites in 1985. Love Valley, arguably the most unique, contains pillars that many assume are manmade monuments. In reality, it's years of wind, water and volcanic activity that deserve the credit.
While you can book a Jeep safari to visit several valleys in one go (off-roading in Cappadocia in an adrenaline-fuelled adventure of its own), going solo by renting a scooter or an ATV is another option. Incidentally, the viewpoint above Love Valley is thankfully devoid of crowds or coach loads of tourists, but more outdoorsy types can hike all the way down to the base of these 18-metre-high fairy chimneys as a self-guided trek to Love Valley and back to Göreme usually takes under three hours. A word to the wise: don't venture too far past the rock formations as packs of wild dogs become increasingly territorial and potentially aggressive once the trail starts to disappear.
Explore the region’s history by night
It's not just the spectacular landscapes that make Cappadocia ideally suited to hiking enthusiasts — not only are there a number of trails of varying difficulty, but also a whole host of abandoned cave dwellings that once sheltered early Christians fleeing Roman persecution. Pigeon Valley conveniently connects the popular towns of Göreme and Uçhisar, while Red Valley wins rave reviews as a sunset spot, courtesy of sandstone that slowly transitions from shades of pink to red over the course of the day. But for a hike that's truly unforgettable, go the extra mile and plan your trip around Moonlight Cappadocia, a three-hour guided hike through Rose Valley. Jointly hosted by Uzunetap and Argos Culture and Arts, this one-of-a-kind excursion is illuminated by – you guessed it – moonlight and held monthly on the night of the full moon from April to October. Along the way, you'll pause for freshly squeezed orange juice, crawl into Crusader Church to view the surprisingly detailed ceiling fresco, and even attend a musical performance inside an ancient cave church lit by candles. As for the nocturnal perspective of Cappadocia? One word: surreal.
Experience the hospitality of Uçhisar’s women
For a home-style meal with an inspiring origin story, venture beyond the tourist trail to Kadıneli, a chic little eatery run by a women's cooperative in the town of Uçhisar. For context, its name translates to “woman’s hand” and there's plenty of those behind the scenes. All the staff at Kadıneli – be they cooks, dishwashers, or wait staff – are women. Brave women. This NGO was formed in order to create employment opportunities for women, but the restaurant actually faced backlash when it opened in 2015 — traditional gender roles are still very much ingrained in Anatolian society. Admittedly, Kadıneli's menu is limited, but what it lacks in breadth, it makes up for in wholesomeness. Turkish staples like yaprak sarma (stuffed vine leaves) and gözleme (flatbreads stuffed with potato or cheese) aside, the homemade manti is a must-try. This local take on dumplings features ground lamb painstakingly folded into little pieces of dough that are then boiled and topped with garlicky yoghurt. Now's the time to overindulge. You'll likely be burning off the calories at the nearby Uçhisar Castle, the highest point in Cappadocia, soon after.
Shop for souvenirs you won't regret
True to tourist hotspots across the globe, the streets of Cappadocia are full of souvenir shops riddled with kitsch, but resist the urge to impulse buy a magnet or miniature hot air balloon — your hard-earned cash is better spent on a keepsake that gives back, like a handmade doll from the village of Soğanlı. Legend has it that the original Soğanlı doll was made several decades ago, when a woman who lost her child made a rag doll of sorts in response to her grief. While this backstory is still under debate, these little trinkets adorned in traditional clothing are in such demand that entire families in Soğanlı are able to make a living off them. Elsewhere, stylish home objects with a sense of place await in Göreme: Melih’s Gourds is famed for its intricately carved lamps that are ingeniously made using dried gourds, while Yastik’s stocks a dizzying array of cushions accented with cultural references.