Travel

A long weekend in... Copenhagen

Ever wanted to visit this Scandi paradise? Here's our guide on all the things to do in Copenhagen, including where to eat, what to see and where to shop...
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Step aside Berlin, because Copenhagen is now the 'it city' in Europe on every tourist's lips. And rightly so. This urban haven is packed with environmentally conscious cyclists, well-dressed locals, miles of harbour front, hinterlands of green space and a blend of historic and modern architecture. Better still, the city has also birthed groundbreaking movements in both the culinary and art worlds - with the renowned ‘New Nordic cuisine’ and designers such as Arne Jacobsen and Finn Juhl originating from the capital, respectively.

So, whether your interests lie in fashion, interior design, cycling or simply gorging on some of the world's best food, Copenhagen has something for you. And as the capital of the 'happiest country in the world', it's the ideal location for tourists to immerse themselves among Instagram-friendly scenery as well as laid-back and welcoming locals.

There's plenty to do in this charming little city, but if you've only got time to fit in a quick 48 hours then we have the ultimate guide for you: from what to pack, where to eat and things to do in Copenhagen, we've got you covered.

How to get there

Hop on either a British Airways (Heathrow), Norwegian Air (Gatwick), Ryanair or Easyjet (London Luton) flight from as little as £20, and you'll be touching down within 90 minutes.

As Copenhagen airport is situated only eight kilometres from the city centre, you won't be too far away from your accommodation, and the easiest way to get there is by the Metro. You'll probably have to go to the city's main Metro Station (Nørreport) and find your destination from there.

Our tip: if travelling with a partner you should save yourself some cash and buy only one rejsekort (the Copenhagen travel card) as two people can tap in and out using the same card.

Where to stay

Hotel Sanders

For 17 years, Alexander Kolpin was one of the world’s leading ballerinos, famously as principal dancer for the Royal Danish Ballet. Now his second act – Hotel Sanders – looks set to be as celebrated. Formerly the boho Hotel Opera, the art nouveau shell has been lovingly restored, with 91 rooms reduced to 52 and virtually every detail bespoke (thanks to London studio Lind + Almond).

Owned with his architect father, Kolpin has created a hotel that’s notable for its elegant design in a country obsessed with concept, and Sanders pulls off that rare feat of providing five-star opulence in a supremely relaxed atmosphere. Infused with the Danish capacity for late-night fun (see: the bar Tata and the rooftop Conservatory) and a sensual twist on “hygge”, Sanders has all the makings of a home away from home and an instant classic on the global stage set.

Rooms from £298. Tordenskjoldsgade 15, 1055, Copenhagen, Denmark. +45 46 400 040. hotelsanders.com

SKT Petri

SKT Petri, the newly renovated five-star hotel in Copenhagen’s trendy Latin Quarter, is an Instgrammer’s delight. Its interior design is the kind that makes you want to change careers and become an architect (or just blog about it). If Danish minimalism was a cliche we'd all stopped believing in, SKT Petri is a gamechanger. The lobby, kitted out in the hotel's emerald green colour scheme, is vast. Circular velvet sofas with accompanying gnarled wooden coffee tables are dotted about reception. A huge canopy of leaves hangs above a little restaurant within the restaurant – a geometric structure that breaks up the space –, and slender green vases and kooky green Snoopy lamps are at every turn. Our favourite design were the midnight-blue velvet booths in the Petri restaurant, but if the sun's out, you'll want to grab a wood-fire pizza and an Aperol Spritz in the large garden courtyard.

Up the stairwell, prettied by geometric gold and black latticing, are the rooms and suites, each fitted with tailored furniture including the hotel's iconic Snoopy lamps by Flos, Platner side chairs by Warren Platner, as well as lamps from Boca Do Lobo. The green theme continues, with beautiful green bedspreads, and matching green and black panelling on the walls. Rooms, though gorgeous and with views of Copenhagen university and church spires, start from only £198 a night in high-season, which, considering SKT Petri is slap bang in the middle of everything there is to see, and you're in one of Europe's most expensive countries, is quite the bargain.

If you fancy splurging, GQ can't recommend the completely renovated STAR suite enough. The hotel's crown jewel features 63 m² of penthouse terrace with jaw-dropping views of the city, four sun loungers and table, and inside, a dining table for six, Tom Dixon lamps, a king-sized bed for two and a large bathroom with jacuzzi and, wait for it... its own private sauna. Sounds incredible, right? Yes, it really is.

The terrace (which you can see from the glass-walled bathroom), looks over Copenhagen University, which inspired part of the hotel's design. The geometric shapes on the building have been copied onto SKT Petri's carpets and walls, to show its appreciation for the university, and mark the hotel's proud place in a hub of learning and culture. Nothing feels more luxurious than ordering breakfast to your suite (a la carte breakfast is included in the rate), and enjoying it on the sun-soaked terrace with a glass of champagne (it's never too early).

SKT Petri is for those who enjoy luxury without the airs and graces. This is a hotel that swaps stuffiness for innovation, and fuss for accessibility, without losing any of those coveted five stars.

Krystalgade 22, 1172 København K, via sktpetri.com

Guldsmeden Hotels

Hand on heart, we’d recommend a stay in one of Copenhagen’s Guldsmeden Hotels to our coolest friends with taste. Modern and bohemian, this spattering of boutique hotels – there are five dotted around the city – are connected by a focus on being both eco-conscious and the last word in comfort.

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Embodying the real essence of ‘hygge’, the Guldsmeden Hotels are the sort that’ll make you pray for a dreary white-sky day just so you can lounge around inside, scented candles a-burning, wearing nothing but the biodegradable bath robe and binging on cashews, champagne and Netflygge (it includes different film and TV options to the UK).

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Obviously the breakfast and restaurant food is organic, wholesome and delightful, and obviously there are saunas and steam rooms, some of which offer skyline views, as well as outdoor wooden baths and homemade scrubs and moisturising creams. Guldsmeden group architect and visual designer Marc Weinhart has also ensured his hotels are full of eclectic and original art which adds to the contemporary cool vibes.

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Specifically, we tested out the Babette and Axel. Babette is located in the quieter, historic part of the city, close to the Royal Palace and Little Mermaid and opposite the 16th-century fortress Kastellet - the grounds of which are spot on for a perky morning stroll. Don’t miss the high ceilings and airy splendour of the pink-glass-fronted Orangerie - or a shot of the fiery ‘local spirit’ on offer from the pond in the glass vessel on the bar.

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Axel, meanwhile, is closer to the edgier Meatpacking Hipstrict, and has a line of baby-blue road bikes with baskets beautifully lined up outside to demonstrate its local credentials. As well as a chic, fairylit courtyard, Axel has two penthouses each with their own spiral staircases up to private rooftop hot tubs – for anyone who wants to feel like the king and queen of Denmark for a night.

*Becky Lucas *

Babette Guldsmeden, Bredgade 78, 1260 København K Axel Guldsmeden, Helgolandsgade 11, 1653 København V www.guldsmedenhotels.com

Hotel D'Angleterre

Only a two-minute walk away from Kongens Nytorv Metro station, D'Angleterre is both the pinnacle of luxury accommodation as well as an easy destination to reach from the airport.

Established in 1755, this Danish landmark is an easy sell. Almost all of the 90 guest rooms on offer are minimalistic yet homely, with pistachio-coloured curtains, high ceilings, charming balconies and splashes of warm purples in almost all corners of the hotel. Moreover, the staff - from the hotel lobby to the spa - live up to the Danish reputation of being polite and accommodating.

The hotel is frequented by Danes as well as tourists. The renowned Christmas decorations that adorn the front of the hotel are usually snapped and Instagrammed by Copenhageners travelling into town while the one-Michelin Star restaurant Marchal just adjacent to the lobby is typically packed by both hotel-stayers and well-dressed locals.

Located opposite the hotel is the iconic and colourful Nyhavn (pronounced: Nu h-ow-n) and there are some of the city’s best shops behind it.

Kongens Nytorv 34, 1050

Hotel Alexandra

Saturated with mid-century Danish design classics such as Arne Jacobsen’s Egg Chair, Børge Mogensen’s Spokeback Sofa and Finn Juhl’s teak coffee tables, Hotel Alexandra must be one of the most aesthetically-pleasing places to be in Copenhagen.

Dedicated to the city’s iconic design, the hotel is effortlessly cool and sleek while its retro theme makes for a refreshing change from the stripped-back, all-white Scandi minimalism that's ubiquitous across the city. But don’t be deceived by the vintage feel - the place has been recently renovated, and each room has just been furnished with a flatscreen TV, for example.

Planted right on the Town Hall Square, a minute's walk from the popular pedestrian shopping street Strøget, Alexandra is not only a good location for those looking for retail therapy, but the Central Station (which has easy access to the airport) is also 600 metres down the road, and nearby landmarks, such as The National Museum of Denmark, will satiate most culture vultures.

If you want to be immersed in Denmark's rich artistic history, Alexandra won't disappoint. Just be warned, the furniture looks so pristine and valuable that we questioned whether or not we should sit on it.

H. C. Andersens Blvd. 8, 1553

Manon Les Suites

This bijou-sized hotel is the ideal temporary abode in the city. Each room is furnished with caramel-coloured wood, chocolate brown leather and can host a group of five guests (perfect for families), while the Copenhagen lakes, Tivoli gardens, city centre and Torvehallernes gourmet-food market are located nearby.

But the best part about this beauty is the communal areas. The ample gym (which offers boxing and pilates) will satiate any fitness buff’s appetite while the pool (located in the middle of the hotel) is a striking, tropical setting that’ll make it seem as though you’ve set foot inside a charming Asian retreat.

Gyldenløvesgade 19, 1600

The Admiral

Sandwiched between the tranquil Toldbodgade and the waterfront, The Admiral Hotel, a two-century-old former granary building, is at the beating heart of Copenhagen. Outside you’ll find the colourful houses of Nyhavn, and just a short walk away is the Little Mermaid and Royal Palace.

Rich in history, the hotel is a nod to Copenhagen’s maritime past - shades of blue and grey dominate the interior, while nautical references are sprinkled throughout, including Admiral costumes and long, ship-style corridors.

And what used to hold 30,000 barrels of grain now hosts 366 guest rooms. Although no two rooms are the same, they all feature heavy wooden beams and contemporary artwork by Peter Brandes and Mogens Andersen - furnishings that help capture the essence of the hotel’s signature style.

When feeling peckish head on over to the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Salt which has been designed by Conran & Partners and offers modern Scandinavian cuisine which has been mixed in with a hefty dose of inspiration from the French kitchen. The result? Impressive dishes that are both innovative and challenging in flavours.

For somewhere with charm and character, this is the place to check-in.

Toldbodgade 24-28, 1253

What to do

Nyhavn

Once a popular shipping dock in the 17th century, Nyhavn now hosts renovated and classy restaurants nestled in front of the beautiful and colourful houses that line the harbour.

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Only a short walk from the best boutiques and restaurants in town, Nyhavn is the ideal place to relax after a day of browsing, especially in the summer heat. Grab a drink from a bar or restaurant for a spot of people watching, or for a more private atmosphere head over to the other side of the dock, swing your legs over the ledge and take in the canvas of coloured houses in front of you.

This Copenhagen landmark is also the starting point for the popular boat tours. Lasting for approximately 30 minutes, these rides take you on a quick-stop tour through the city's harbour front and will give you an up-close view of the best architecture, including the Opera House, the Little Mermaid statue and the Black Diamond library.

Our tip: head to the ticket booth at the side of the harbour rather than at the end - a much cheaper ticket for the exact same ride.

Nyhavn 1-71, 1051

Louisiana

Only a short train ride outside Copenhagen, it should be any visitor's priority to visit this sleek art gallery. Based in Humlebæk, a tranquil town by the Øresund strait, Louisiana is home to the works by Miró, Picasso, Lichtenstein and other modern masters. And tickets cost only £10.

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The building itself is worth admiration. Originally a private home owned by a man who had three wives, all called Louise (hence the gallery's name), this museum is a Modernist piece of work kitted with floor-to-ceiling windows that offer panoramic views of the Øresund.

Our tip: pack some swimwear for your day out as there's a beach on the doorstep.

Strandvej 13, 3050, Humlebæk

Tivoli

Opened in 1843, Tivoli is oldest and classiest amusement park you'll ever visit and was the key inspiration behind Disney World.

Walk through the giant stone arch and you'll be taken back to the romantic era in your life of theme parks and family days out. From its confectionary shops to park staff, you won't find anything kitsch or overtly commercial here.

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Although it covers only 20 acres of land, this theme park certainly packs a punch. Inside there's a ride for everyone, from 80 foot swings that give you a panoramic view of the city to a gentle ride that takes you through a visual journey of writer Hans Christian Andersen's life. We would, however, recommend the Bjergbanen rollercoaster, the park's marquee ride. Bjergbanen, or Rutschebanen as it's sometimes known, is one of the world's oldest wooden rollercoasters and still operates today. From the outskirts it may not seem like a ride that can thrill, but appearances are deceptive. Full of dips and gut-trembling drops, an operator is needed on this ride to control the rollercoaster's downhill speed.

Other recommendations include Dæmonen (a short but heart-pounding thrill), Vertigo (a plane ride that will hammer you upside down) and the ferris wheel (a calmer experience that'll allow you to view the city from above).

Gemyse

Tivoli also hosts some of the city's finest eateries. Most notably, Gemyse, which is affiliated to the beautiful Nimb hotel across the park. Show us a Copenhagen restaurant more beautiful than Gemyse, and we'll show you an audacious liar. Make sure you nab yourself a spot in the greenhouse section of the restaurant, (at the oh-so-Danish communal wooden table), with views across the lively Tivoli gardens, and surrounded by the restaurant's homegrown plants and herbs.

You'd be mad not to order the tasting menu, which allows Gemyse – a vegetable-focussed restaurant – to show off all the hundreds of ways it can turn ordinary fruit and veg into miniature works of art. The best dish from the tasting menu was, surprisingly, one of the appetisers: vivid green crunchy edamame falafel balls with whipped goats cheese cream, along with wheat chips resembling giant Special K dipped in radish and truffle cream. The Halibut with wine and butter stole the show for its creamy softness – we dread to think how much butter was in there – and innovative dishes included the "carrot tartare" (also known as...carrot), with poppadom and baba ganoush. With every dish, the flavours were as delicate as the presentation, and perfectly in sync with surroundings of potted plants, flowers, herbs and earth.

At Gemsye, come 10pm, when you're on to your third glass of organic wine, watching the sun set through the glass walls of the greenhouse and Tivoli's fairground lights twinkle, there's nothing in Copenhagen more magical. Keep your eyes peeled for the majestic peacocks that free roam the park from dawn till dusk.

Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3, 1620 København V,, Denmark

Other eateries include Kahler i Tivoli (a unique gastronomical experience set inside a contemporary interior) and Fru Nimb (where you'll experience the famous Danish open-sandwich), the park's restaurants are certainly a world away from Alton Towers and the like.

Vesterbrogade 3, 1630

Where to go for brunch/coffee

Atelier September

Only a Lego brick's throw away from Hotel D'Angleterre and Nyhavn, Atelier September is a simple and fuss-free vegetarian café. With natural light flooding through the café and food that tastes as good as it looks, Atelier September is an ideal spot for both Insta-fooders and brunchers (and Insta-brunchers) alike. The locals opt for avacado on rye bread, but we recommend the unsung hero of the menu: the hearty shakshouka.

Gothersgade 30, 1123

Dyrehaven

If you want to sample Copenhagen's best Egg's Benedict, then look no further than Café Dyrehaven. Walk through the doors of this locals' favourite and it'll seem like you've stepped into another period - from its wooden panelled bars and booths to its roof fans that turn at an agonisingly slow speed. And when you sit down and tuck into your lunch here, you'll notice two things: the laidback yet simultaneously attentive staff and the incredible flavour party occurring inside your mouth.

Sønder Blvd. 72, 1720

Paludan

Placed in the heart of the city, Paludan is a haven for book lovers young and old. Here you are surrounded by walls of antique bookcases which create a hygge, almost library-esque, atmosphere. To make the task of replying to your endless chain of emails a little bit easier, find a little corner, order yourself a Paludan treat and just zone out from your surroundings.

Fiolstræde 10, 1171

Where to dine

Read more: Noma review: still the world's most influential restaurant

Since 2004, the Copenhagen food scene has changed dramatically. From the Danes having a reputation for producing bland and uninspiring food to the capital playing host to 16 Michelin star restaurants, there's been a real turnaround in this corner of Scandinavia in the past decade or so. And this projection is all down to the conception of the most innovative food movement in the world, the 'New Nordic cuisine'. This puritanical belief in eschewing foreign goods in favour of local and seasonal produce was first put on the culinary map by Noma and its head chef René Redzepi - and the Danes haven't looked back.

Laura L.P./HdG Photography

Awarded 'Best Restaurant in the World' four times (2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014) by Restaurant magazine, this flagship of the New Nordic school is no ordinary dining spot. Guests can only book on the first day of the month for a reservation three months in advance, and even that task is made significantly more difficult by the fact that 20,000 other hopeful diners are also scrambling for a spot at the exact same time.

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And if you're one of the lucky few who manages to obtain the Noma golden ticket then you won't be disappointed. Located in a warehouse on the waterfront of Copenhagen's Christianshavn neighbourhood, this gastronomic mecca has a simple and unpretentious feel. When stepping inside the minimalistic double doors, guests are met with dozens of warm smiles and greetings from the chefs, waiting staff and Mr Redzepi himself. And this is what immediately separates Noma from the crowd: while other Michelin star restaurants have you on your edge of your seat in intimidation, Noma strips back the fear factor and breaks down the cold barrier between kitchen and guest.

Laura L.P./HdG Photography

Depending on the night, you'll be treated to 16 to 20 hand-sized courses which the chefs present to you in a humble, almost too humble, manner. From beginning to end, the food offers nothing short of high-quality theatrics. From simple ingredients (gooseberries plucked from fields surrounding Copenhagen), to the bizarre (chocolate-covered moss and mushrooms) to the downright delicious (rib-eyed flavoured barbecued greens followed by fresh langoustine bathed in warm egg yolk), Noma plays with your senses, distills the Nordic landscape onto complex food and leaves you longing for just one more bowl of Scandi goodness. This is food for the soul, fine-dining style.

Strandgade 93, 1401

Kokkeriet

Located on the quiet end of a busy street stands Kokkeriet - Copenhagen’s oldest Michelin-starred restaurant. Cooking for both locals and food tourists for over 15 years, this slick gastro haven is one of the founding pillars of the Nordic food scene. And it’s easy to see why. Although not far from the chaos of the city centre, the restaurant is a spot of calm and peace and feels as though you’re dining in a close friend’s house as opposed to a stuffy high-end eatery. The room is cosy and intimate, the walls papered with gold tapestry. And the food? Molecular gastronomy at its finest.

Kronprinsessegade 64, 1306

Kødybens Fiskebar

Dig a little deeper and there's more to Copenhagen's booming food scene than Michelin star eateries. Fiskebar, one of Redzepi's favourite spots, is a cool and understated restaurant that should be next on any food tourist's to-do list.

Josh Lee

Opened by a former protégé of Redzepi, Fiskebar offers the finest fish menu that Copenhagen has to offer. Located in the city's revitalised Meatpacking District, this local favourite offers fine-dining dishes at modest prices, not to mention an interior that is typical of the Danes: from the striking cylinder aquarium as the room's centrepiece, to one unfinished and exposed brick wall, Fiskebar is one of the chicest places around. And for the finest flavours of the Danish sea, look no further. The pick of the menu includes oysters (the biggest and meatiest you'll experience), scallops (buttery and light) on a bed of crumbled cauliflower, king crab (succulent and smokey) and finally, the real treat on the menu, the light and wholesome rice pudding with raspberry jam.

If the king of the New Nordic cuisine recommends it, then you know it will be half decent.

Flæsketorvet 100, 1711

Food on-the-go

Papirøen

Dining out in Copenhagen can also be as simple as a trip to the popular food hall Papirœn - otherwise known as Paper Island.

Previously a grey industrial hall that served as paper storage for Danish press, this food market is packed full of stalls serving cuisines from all corners of the world, from tacos to Korean sweet potato noodles. Choose a meal (or two), pick up a glass of your favourite tipple and then, if the weather allows, grab a seat outside the warehouse and take in the most picturesque waterside view that Copenhagen has to offer. Skål!

Rangravsvej 14, hal 7 & 8, 1436

Where to shop

HAY House

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A sleek and modern furniture shop, HAY House is a haven for those obsessed with interiors.

Located in a second- and third-floor apartment on the bustling Østegarde shopping street, HAY offers flawless design products that are both accessible and affordable - from minimalistic lamps and sofas to stationarey. Every Scandi treat found inside HAY House will blow any Muji product out of the water.

Østergade 61, 1100

Weekday

As one branch of the H&M group, Weekday typically offers classic and monochromatic menswear items. Although quite a small shop, it stocks all the essential menswear pieces you'll need this year at H&M's typically reasonable prices: from crew neck jumpers to black bomber jackets. Stock up on your wardrobe essentials here.

Amagertorv 33, 1160

Samsøe & Samsøe

For the best hand-selected products by Acne Studios, eyewear by Han Kjøbenhavn and latest streetwear essentials, look no further than Samsøe & Samsøe.

Spread across two floors, you'll be able spend a good amount of time scavenging for the best parkas, sneakers and jumpers around. Wallets at the ready for this sartorial experience.

Købmagergade 44, 1150

Where to get your Dansk on

The Meatpacking District

Copenhagen's nightlife is booming and accommodates everyone - from mainstream discos to underground bars that blast heavy Danish techno into the early morning.

For the best spots head to the Meatpacking District. Although host to Fiskebar and other culinary delights, this area also houses some of Copenhagen's best bars and clubs. Here you'll dance, drink, walk hazily outside in the early morning and, rather strangely, see butchers at work. Our suggestions include:

Bakken: a cosy atmosphere. Head over to the old slaughtering halls for a beer and a dance, or for more casual surroundings go outside and a grab a drink from the patio bar.

Jolene: a place where you can be as loud as you like. Opened in 2007, but shut down due to neighbour complaints, Jolene then relocated to the Meatpacking District. What you'll find here is a fuss-free bar - decorations are vintage and a bit tattered and the crowd is both jovial yet not aggressive.

WarPigs: 20 different beers on tap. We'll leave it there.

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Where to Instagram

Nyhavn

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Nyhavn 1F, 1051

Valby suburb

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Valby, Copenhagen

Christiania

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Freetown Christiania, Copenhagen

What to pack

Danish weather can be pretty unforgiving throughout the best part of the year, so protect yourself from the elements with some padded layers and waterproofs, and if you want to blend right in with the locals you should definitely stick to practical yet stylish pieces in a monochrome palette.

Rains holdall

Spacious enough for a weekend's worth of ensembles, yet compact enough for the overhead locker. Danish brand Rains hails from the capital and this bag sticks to true Copenhagen style: functional, minimalistic and black.

£70 via Rains

COS parka

This parka coat is made from a smooth technical fabric with a soft padded lining and will serve you well in the rain and wind. Throw this over any outfit and you'll fit right in. £175 via COS

Paul Smith boots

If you walk through town you'll notice that it's often a sneaker-off. However, for a classier outfit that will take you from morning to night opt for some more timeless footwear and lace up this pair of boots.

£625 via Mr Porter