“As a Middle Eastern woman, I constantly have hair on my face. So to be able to exfoliate and remove those hairs is a big cosmetic benefit,” she says.

Typically, a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician will use a surgical-grade scalpel to scrape off vellus hair (also known as “peach fuzz”) and a top layer of dead skin cells. But experts say you can also do it from home with an exfoliation tool.

“It’s different from a regular razor, because you can get a better angle with the long dermaplaning tools and it’s also less sharp than razors, which are meant to cut thick hairs,” Gohara explains.

Men’s grooming now extends below the belt, and it’s rising in popularity

For those interested in trying dermaplaning, here’s what you need to know about the trendy procedure, including its purported benefits and risks.

Why is everyone talking about dermaplaning?

“It’s not only men that have thick, dark facial hair. And it’s not only men that shave their face,” user @thatgirlsare posted on short-video platform TikTok. “Let’s normalise some girls having thick dark facial hair and using razors to shave.”

“Love how confident it makes me feel,” user @about_theglow wrote on TikTok.

“While those soft, vellus hairs can be helpful, they also hold on to make-up, dirt, bacteria and a whole bunch of irritants,” says Cassandra Bankson, a skincare expert and medical aesthetician who regularly shaves her face. “I found that when I dermaplaned my face, my selfies turned out crisper, because the powdered make-up wouldn’t hold on to my facial hairs.”

Azadeh Shirazi, a cosmetic dermatologist, says this skin-smoothing effect is one of the main benefits.

“It’s more than just a method for hair removal. It’s a much deeper exfoliation treatment … so removing the dead skin cells allows for better penetration of your skincare products, making them more effective. It also allows for make-up to go on smoother,” Shirazi, says.

Will shaving your face make your hair grow back thicker?

It’s a common concern that shaving will make your hairs grow back thicker, darker and faster, but skincare experts say it’s a complete fallacy.

Bankson says it may appear this way, because the hairs will “grow back evenly and appear to be popping up at once out of nowhere”.

However, Gohara says your hair growth and thickness is “genetically preprogrammed”.

“There are different factors that play into this like age, hormonal influences and genetics. That’s what influences the amount of hair and how thick it is – not how you remove it.”

Are there risks to dermaplaning?

“Dermaplaning can cause breakouts in some people,” Bankson says. “Hairs on the face have a purpose of getting oil onto the outer surface of our skin.

“If you were to shave those hairs off, those oils could still potentially stay in the skin for those with acne or clogged pores, which could trap everything inside and cause a pimple.”

To minimise risks, Shirazi says it’s best to consult a professional who is skilled in the practice. For those opting to do it from home, make sure to proceed with caution.

“Always cleanse the skin being treated and clean your hands, the tools, and the area where you are going to be doing it. Be informed about dermaplaning, the dos and don’ts, the techniques, because the more you know, the better you can assess the risks.”